Trams have become less frequent in Japan’s public transport environment – as in many other countries – but there are still 20 active systems throughout the country. Hiroshima is one of the few cities to have retained its tram lines. The history of the Hiroshima Electric Railway is a chequered and in some ways tragic one. But Hiroshima loves its tramway and takes care of it.
Visitors to Hiroshima today will experience a modern and economically successful city that also has a number of sights to offer. One of the most popular tourist destinations is Miyajima Island, located in Hiroshima Bay. The island is famous for its enormous torii gate in front of Itsukushima Shrine, which appears to float on the water at high tide. Another worthwhile excursion destination is Hiroshima Castle, also known as Carp Castle. It was originally built in the 1590s by the powerful feudal lord Mori Termuto.
Anyone travelling around the city will hardly be able to avoid the tram. In spring, the service will be improved once again, with the trams running directly into the main station, making it even easier to change from the Shinkansen high-speed train to the light rail. From Hiroshima station, the various tram lines run into the city centre, two of them to the port. Hiroshima has the longest network of trams still in operation in Japan. An underground railway was never built in Hiroshima.
The first tram line began operating on 23 November 1912 between Ekimae Station (now Hiroshima Station) and Miyuki-bashi, just a stone’s throw from today’s Senda Main Depot. Hatchobori soon became an important branch, as trams were already running between the districts of Kamiyocha and Nishi (then still called Koi) on 8 December.
Like a moving museum
For tram enthusiasts, Hiroshima is a rolling museum. The Hiroshima Electric Railway operates trams from different eras. There are many trams from Japanese cities that have given up their trams in favour of modern buses. Some models also come from Europe. For example, the city of Hanover donated a T2 vehicle to its twin city in 1989. The Hanover tramcar bears the inscription ‘Hanover greets Hiroshima’ on both sides, in both German and Japanese. However, the vehicle is rarely used because it does not have air conditioning – a particular disadvantage in the extremely hot summer months. However, the tram car has its great moments around Christmas time, when it runs as a Christmas tram on special trips.
Two Düwag GT8 articulated trams from Dortmund, which ran in Hiroshima from 1981, are no longer in service. One of the vehicles was scrapped in 2006, the other was scrapped in 2004 and served as a restaurant for a while. It was later installed as an attraction in a shopping centre. It can still be hired as a party room today. Other vehicles come from Kobe, Kyoto and Osaka. Since the turn of the century, Hiroshima has consistently modernised its trams and added Siemens/Düwag and Mitsubishi vehicles to the fleet.
The tragedy: Little Boy
Among the most interesting vehicles are the three trams numbered 651, 652 and 653 (all built in 1942). They date from the war years and still commemorate the dropping of the first atomic bomb on 6 August 1945. After Japan’s entry into the war, the tram was reserved for the military and goods transport. As the men were on military service, many young women took over their duties at home. Among other things, they became tram drivers and conductors. In April 1943, the Hiroshima Electric Railway’s ‘Home Economic Girls’ School’ was founded in the Minami district. The boarding school initially housed 72 girls, who completed a three-year programme after graduating from the state primary school at the age of 14. The students were taught sewing and typing and learnt to drive trams or take on the duties of a conductor. On the morning of 6 August 1945, there was no indication of the catastrophe that would befall the city on that Monday. An air raid alert was cancelled as only three planes were sighted. One of them, a B-29 bomber with the nickname ‘Enola Gay’, dropped the explosive device ‘Little Boy’ at 8.15 am. Within fractions of a second, the city centre was reduced to rubble. The exact number of victims is still unclear today, but it is estimated that the explosion killed 22,000 people immediately, but that a further 100,000 people fell victim to the firestorm and radiation in the hours that followed. By the end of 1945, it is estimated that around 140,000 people had died as a result of the atomic bomb. The tram system was not spared from the material damage, 108 of the 123 trams were damaged and over 40 were irreparably burnt out. The Yagura-no-shita substation near the hypocentre was completely destroyed and almost half of the city’s electricity pylons were toppled. Of the 1241 employees of the Hiroshima Electric Railway, 185 were killed and 266 were injured to varying degrees. Dutifully, some employees and the army began to restore the tramway. Just three days after the bombing, a few trams were running on a short route through the largely destroyed city. On 17 September, a typhoon swept over the region and caused further damage. A law on the reconstruction of the city (Hiroshima Peace Memorial City Construction Law) made it possible to reconstruct the trams from 1950 onwards, which were then double-tracked in the centre of the street. In the 1970s, the city of Hiroshima bought tramcars that had been discarded elsewhere – for example in Osaka, Kyoto and Kobe. For cost reasons, they kept their livery – until today.
The Hibaku Street Car Project
The 653 tramcar was taken out of service after the turn of the century. However, to mark the 70th anniversary of the bombing, it was completely restored and repainted in its original blue/grey colour scheme. Two other motor cars, the 651 and 652, were also restored and painted in the colours of the Hiroden Streetcars green/beige. Around 2800 people helped in one way or another with the ‘Hibaku Street Car Project’, which was initiated by the Hiroshima Electric Railway together with the local broadcaster Chugoku Broadcasting RCC. The correct colour scheme proved to be a particular challenge – after all, only black and white photos existed from the 1940s. With the help of books and descriptions, as well as the memories of Hibakusha – those affected by the atomic bomb explosion – the colour was matched to the original as far as possible. Today, number 653 takes school classes through the city and thus contributes to a lively history lesson. The three vintage cars are now only used for special trips.
If you want to see them – and the modern tramcars – you can also visit the Streetcar Festival. It takes place on the second Sunday in June, which coincides with the start of the rainy season. However, it is very hot in clear weather and the courtyard offers hardly any shade. It is therefore advisable to bring sun cream and a hat or parasol. The depot in the Senda district also offers many attractions for children, such as a colouring competition, as well as souvenirs, food stalls and stage shows. The ‘Hiroden Streetcar Festival’ is a PR event organised by the Hiroshima Electric Railway to thank its passengers. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the event was cancelled in 2020 and will be held again in 2025. ‘Tram Day’ is celebrated on 10 June as a play on words: ‘ro’ (6) and “ten” (10) refer to ‘roden’ (tram). It was launched in Hiroshima in October 1995 to widely promote the public benefits and convenience of trams, as well as to promote their use and various campaign activities. It was officially recognised by the Japan Anniversary Association in 2023. The Hiroshima Electric Railway Senda Streetcar Yard is the oldest tram depot and is located next to the Hiroshima Electric Railway Main Building.
The easiest way to reach the Senda depot is to take tram lines 1, 3 or 7 to Hiroden Honsha-mae. There is a standard fare of 160 yen on the tram. Payment is made when getting off the tram, either to the tram driver or, for longer trains, to the conductor.
Tram lines in Hiroshima
- Line 1 (orange): Hiroshima Station (Central Station to Hiroshima Port)
- Line 2 (Red: Hiroshima Station (Central Station) to Miyajima-guchi (ferry to Miyajama Island)
- Line 3 (Blue): Nishi-Hiroshima Station to Hiroshima Port
- Line 5 (Green): Hiroshima Station to Hiroshima Port (harbour)
- Line 6 (Yellow): Hiroshima Main Station to Eba
- Line 7 (Dark Green): Yokogawa Station to Hiroden honsha-mae
- Line 8 (Pink): Yokogawa Station to Eba
- Line 9 (Grey): Hatchobori to Hakushima
Some data on Hiroshima’s tramway:
- 8 lines
- 35.1 km route network length, of which 16.1 km interurban line 2
- 4 depots
- 137 tramcars built between 1942 and 2024
- Low-floor share approx. 36%
Interview with Ayumi MAEDA, Assistant Manager of the Tram Planning Department at Hiroshima Electric Railway Co., Ltd.
How long have you been working for Hiroshima Electric Railway?
Ayumi MAEDA: This year is 14 years.
What other tasks do you do when you’re not showing journalists and photographers round the depot?
Ayumi MAEDA: I plan and operate seasonal tram lines such as the Christmas train and organise photo events with older vehicles. My focus is on developing and realising projects that make people enjoy trams.
The tram with the number 653 is different from all the others. What makes it so special?
Ayumi MAEDA: This tram was in operation when the atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima in 1945 and it is still running as a special train known as the ‘atomic bomb train’. Among the type 650 trains, unit 653, which you can photograph here, is used as a private train at some events. The remaining two trains, units 651/652, are operated commercially as usual.
So you could describe these trams as a ‘living museum’?
Ayumi MAEDA: In the 1960s, motorisation progressed throughout Japan and the trams were gradually decommissioned. In order to rebuild its demanding business operations, Hiroshima Electric Railway purchased vehicles on a large scale from other cities such as Osaka and Kobe, which were closing down their tram services at the time. Hiroshima thus modernised and rationalised its operations. The company acquired various types of trams from several cities and still operates them in their original colour schemes to this day, earning it the nickname ‘The Moving Tram Museum’.
How often does the number 653 run and on which routes?
Ayumi MAEDA: Unit 653 is used as a private train during events, it does not run with regular passengers. As for units 651/652, they may operate during the morning rush hour. The operating routes depend on the day.
Is driving or maintenance more complicated than with modern trams?
Ayumi MAEDA: Older trams such as the atomic bomb train, i.e. the 650 series models, are easier to maintain than newer vehicles. Newer trams use many electronic components, which often makes it more difficult to determine the cause of faults when they occur. In contrast, faults in analogue vehicles such as the atomic bomb train are straightforward to detect, which makes maintenance easier.
In terms of driving, older trams operate in a similar way to cars with manual gears and require more skill from the driver, which can lead to noticeable differences in performance.
Which trams do you like better, the modern or the vintage ones?
Ayumi MAEDA: I’m sorry I can’t give you a definite answer, but I like both. The new vehicles that run in the city centre are stylish and emphasise the beauty of our urban landscape. Vintage vehicles, on the other hand, have a charm that only older models possess, and I have great respect for them as they have carried many passengers over the years and are still in reliable service.
From spring 2025, the tram lines will run directly into the new Hiroshima station building: What does the future of public transport in Hiroshima look like?
Ayumi MAEDA: Arriving at Hiroshima Station Building will shorten the travel time to JR and tram and improve the punctuality and convenience of access to the city centre. Changing trains at Hiroshima Station will be more convenient and easier.
